Tahuata

Friday 24 June – after a lovely catch up and walk with Sheryl and Mike, we said our goodbyes until we meet back at the NZYS on 30 July for the 150th Anniversary dinner.   

Up came the anchor and we left for Tahuata.  Located just south of Hiva Oa, Tahuata is separated only by the Canal du Bordelais, a channel that is three kilometres wide.  Again, it is very mountainous, the highest peaks being Mount Tumu Mea Ufa at 1500 metres and Mount Pahio at 1000 metres. 

This mountain range runs in an arc from east to south and is what remains of the main caldera of the volcano that created the island.  It is about nine kilometres in diameter.  Within this caldera is another lower mountainous rim which reveals the site of a second, more than half submerged crater which must have been about four kilometres in diameter.   It is not clear if this is the caldera of a second, later volcano or a second collapse of the primitive volcano.  Steep slopes, high cliffs and deep valleys form a very rugged coastline,  but it does have small bays with white sandy beaches and lovely clear water.  It is the island with the most coral formations in the Marquesas, most other islands in the archipelago are devoid of coral. 

A one hour sail and here we are, anchored in Hanamoenoa Bay just by a beautiful white sandy beach.  Idyllic.  G&T’s on the deck watching another beautiful sunset and NZ lamb chops on the BBQ!  Who could ask for more?

Saturday 25 June – It’s been a day of scrubbing, swimming, sunbathing, snoozing and snorkelling!  After a leisurely wake up in the glorious sunshine, we each devoured a 1kg half of grapefruit for breakfast!  We have a plethora of local fruit to get through including mangoes, papaya, bananas and breadfruit (which I’m not quite sure what to do with yet!).  Delicious. 

We had a bit of a working bee this morning, tidying up the boat and then we put flippers on and both of us spent some time cleaning off this horrible yellow slime that grows on the boat when sailing.  We did one hull and it was a great workout for our shoulders and legs, keeping afloat, that’s for sure! 

We rewarded ourselves with a lovely baguette sandwich and glass of cold white wine as we sat on the trampoline on the bow.  I actually had a nice little snooze afterwards and then we got the dinghy out and went nearer the shore, put the anchor down and had a snorkel.  Lots of pretty blue and yellow fish and two shoals of grey fish with the prettiest silver fins and tails that shimmered in the sunshine. 

We went ashore and were the only people on this lovely stretch of sandy beach, when we walked up from the water our feet sank deep into the crunchy sand.  We walked inwards and discovered a cute little shack that had been built nestled in the palm trees.  Further back we found grapefruit trees, unfortunately with only  small unripe grapefruit, and a host of lime trees.  The limes here are absolutely sensational, very fragrant and very tasty and I managed to put about 10 down the front of my swimsuit.  Back to the boat and a G&T with the freshest lime you could imagine and another glorious sunset end to the day.

Sunday 26 June – an early wake up and Geoff is down in the generator locker changing the oil while I did a bit of a Sadie cleaning lady in the galley, salon and cockpit.  We then decided to explore another bay and were keen to get into Vaitahu Bay but unfortunately when we sailed around to it, it was very, very rocky and the sea was surging in, so whilst we could anchor, it would have been too dangerous to go in on the dinghy which was a shame.  So we sailed back out and two bays later we have moored in Hapatoni bay.  We could hear the local kids playing in the dock so we got into the dinghy and ventured in. 

What a pretty little village, colourful dragon boats in the dock and I just can’t get over how lush the vegetation is – so many shades of green, it’s like the trees are almost lit up in parts, so many beautiful coloured tropical flowers and further along our walk, a floor full of mangoes just dropping off the trees, you could smell them fermenting.  We managed to get a couple that had just fallen off but gosh, to see them all lying there split open, what a waste!  A beautiful church set back facing the sea – inside there was a heady fragrance from all the fresh flowers that had been placed around the statues and altar.

We decided not to stay in the bay overnight as we were anchored in coral, so felt it better to move.  Here we are now anchored by Ivaivaiti beach – the only boat here with the sun about to set – another perfect day is coming to a close!

Monday 27 June – we tackled cleaning the other hull this morning, blimey it was hard work, just so much current pushing us back and forward all the time, made it so difficult, you started at one end and within a minute you were halfway up the boat.  We got there in the end though.  I also did the slime in the ladder recess and again it was hard as every minute or so I got a gush of water in my face!!!!   Also gave the bottom of the dinghy a wipe and that was the working part of the day over.

We have decided to head back to Hiva Oa.  Too much wind today to get to Fatu Hiva our next stop, but just an hour to Hiva Oa so we’re heading back there to see if the guy can fix the watermaker – he was arriving back on the island today so it’s worth a punt.  Also our fancy phone cards that we bought that apparently work everywhere in Polynesia didn’t work in Tahuata so we can get onto the internet in Hiva Oa and see what’s happening in the world!