Fatu Hiva
Wednesday 29 June – We had some luck getting the water maker fixed and decided to head off immediately for Fatu Hiva, I loved Hiva Ora but it was definitely time to explore our last stop in the Marquesas.
It took us about 6 hours and there were some big seas, so it was a bit of rockin’ and rollin’ and we arrived around 9.15pm. Once again, we had to slowly negotiate our way into Hana Vave Bay (the Bay of Virgins or Baie des Vierges) as it was pitch black and we could see some boats with lights, but a few without, so that made it tricky.
The eastern coastline of Fatu Hiva is is characterised by a number of narrow valleys carved by streams that lead to the interior. Between these valleys are headlands which terminate in cliffs that plunge directly in to the sea, making travel between them possible only by travelling over the high mountain ridges between them, or by boat. Because of the rugged terrain, there is no airstrip and Fatu Hiva is only accessible by boat, Hana Vave Bay and Omoa being the two main anchorages.
Thursday 30 June – I need a word more majestic than majestic to describe the majestic view that greeted us this morning! It looks like we have definitely saved the best for last. The most isolated island in the Marquesas and one of the most beautiful, Fatu Hiva has the wettest climate of the archipelago and its vegetation is rich and diversified – from rain forest to fruit trees!
We are anchored in Hana Vave Bay which is located in the north and is known as one of the most picturesque sites (and sight!) in the South Pacific, and I can certainly vouch for that. The first explorer to discover Fatu Hiva was the Spanish navigator Alvaro de Mendana on 21 July 1595. It was the first island in the archipelago that he saw but he was unable to land as he couldn’t find a safe anchorage. He mistakenly believed that he had found the Solomon Islands which was the goal of his voyage, before realising that he had discovered a new land. He named the archipelago “Marquesas de Mendoza” in honour of the Viceroy of Peru who had helped him launch his expedition and to show him his gratitude. Since Mendana arrived during the vigil of St Mary Magdelene in 1595 he named the island Isla Magdalena.
We took the dinghy into the dock at Hana Vave – it’s a tiny village, one church, one shop, that was really like a glorified shed, a town hall and a school. It was the last day of term so the kids had all had a celebratory morning and were all dressed up and carrying balloons. We were invited into the house of some local ladies who showed us tapas they had made and we also passed by the garden of a gentleman who was busy wood carving and proudly showed us some of his recent pieces. Everyone is very friendly and very happy.
After lunch back on the boat we decided to sail around to the only other anchorage in Fatu Hiva, Omoa, the capital of the island. This was actually only a 15 minute sail – we couldn’t get over just how stunning the rock formations are, some look like creases, some with jagged tops, most covered in lush foliage right down to the water’s edge where the waves crash in spreading foam up the sides.
Eager to have a look around before the sun set, we took the dinghy in and had a lovely walk along the water’s edge and a little way into the village. Such beautiful well-kept gardens, flowers and fruit trees, and a gorgeous setting sun, with the bells ringing at 5.30pm for Mass before we got back into the dinghy to toast the orange skyline with our G&T’s.
Friday 1 July – We thought we would have another walk into the village a bit further in than we managed last night. Gosh it’s so beautiful, lovely little gardens and I know I keep going on about it, but the flowers and fruit are so incredible, I just can’t get over the colours of the tropical flowers and bromeliads and the abundance of mangoes, grapefruit, limes and breadfruit just dripping from the trees. There was a sign for an artisan museum so we went to explore and ended up in a lady’s garden!
She came over to see us and said she would take us to the museum – it was actually in her little house – passed down from her ancestors there were intricately carved bowls, spears, paddles, a beautiful wooden beam holding up her house – and even a special bowl for when someone dies to keep their head in!!!!! Every home should have one!!!
On the way out we saw a guy drying fish in the sun in preparation for the festival on the island which takes place next week. We walked a fair way up the main street in the village until the road came to an end, en route we passed two ladies, one of whom kindly gave us a banana each. We had been in the little shop looking for bread – the ladies in there told me to go up the road to another building and shout for them to come out. We didn’t need to do that as there were three ladies there, one carrying a plastic bag with about a dozen baguettes in it. Apparently you have to be there around 6.00am to snag the baguettes, so far too early for us, but the lady kindly opened her bag and gave us one, and then said she would drive us back to the dinghy dock – no money changed hands, they are just kind and generous, smiling people.
We’ve loved it here but it’s almost time to leave - we are planning an early start tomorrow for our journey down to the Tuamotu islands which will be two nights and our first stop will be Rairoa.