Hiva Oa
Sunday 19 June - we pulled into Taha uku Bay which is in the crater of the volcano, behind the breakwater around 4pm - it’s a cute little bay and there are a number of catamarans here too.
The town is a 3 kilometre walk from here so we decided not venture out that late as it is dark here by 5.30pm, and we had a leisurely evening on the boat instead.
Hiva Oa is the second largest and most fertile of the southern Marquesas Islands and its main characteristic is the collapsed volcano Temetiu. It features steep cliffs abruptly rising from the ocean to a rugged interior spine of volcanic mountains, ridges and deep, isolated valleys. Unlike the other Polynesian islands near the equator, no fringing coral reefs protect Hiva Oa from the pounding of the ocean and there are only a few sheltered anchorages scattered around the coast. Most of the coastal terrain is too rugged for roads and nearly all the cars on the roads are 4WD – I have never seen so many Landrover Defenders in one place!
Monday 20 June – up early, we checked out the supermarket by the Marina and bought a few treats that we didn’t really need but will certainly enjoy, and we found out about the laundry. Stephanie is our lady, the cashier called her up and she agreed to meet me tomorrow at the dock. We have to get our laundry re-washed, it just stinks!!!! You won’t believe it….who should come sailing into the harbour yelling at us – Claude and Annabel, our Panama Canal neighbours, and dinner guests in Bahia de Caraquez in Ecuador.
They are on a catamaran delivery and Hiva Oa is their final destination! Small world! Then we walked into Atuona, one of the main villages on the island. It was a delightful walk – such lush foliage – palm trees, banana trees, passion fruit trees, citrus fruit trees, bougainvillea, frangipani trees, tiare blossoms, so many colours, so many sensuous fragrances and all surrounded by incredible volcanic rock with a layer of cloud floating around the top. It was a good walk, with a lot of uphill – perfect exercise after being on the boat for 36 hours!
The little town centre was so clean and well maintained with colourful houses and a sprinkling of shops and a post office and bank. I was keen to visit the French artist Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer and poet Jacques Brel’s museums and they were centrally located in the village. Both museums were set out in little houses, surrounded by lush foliage and sculptures. Beautiful pieces of art in one and when I told the receptionist I wanted to see Brel’s museum too, she got out her bunch of keys and walked me to a big shed that backed onto the beach. She unpadlocked the door and let me in – to my surprise there was a Beechcraft D50 Twin Bonanza airplane sitting in the middle of the shed!
She switched on some Jacques Brel music and left me to wander around and look at the exhibits. Jacques Brel, as well as being a poet and singer, was also a bit of a nomad. He had sailed his ketch The Askoy into Taha uku Bay on 19 November 1975 after 59 days at sea to and had also owned the plane sitting in the shed. He had fully renovated the plane nick-named Jo -Jo and flown it into Hiva Oa. There was a lot of information and photographs to view, sadly no English translation so I left feeling slightly frustrated with myself that my French hadn’t been more fluent so I could really take in all the exhibits.
Both Gauguin and Brel lived out their final days in Hiva Oa and we walked up to the Cavalry Cemetery, a short path up the cliffs from the town with the most breath-taking view of Taha uku Bay, to look at both of their graves. All in all, an interesting, informative and thoroughly delightful day!
Tuesday 21 June - We are short of gas and are now using the spare one and it has been very difficult to find more – apparently none on the whole island and the delivery boat is not scheduled for at least another 10 days. Geoff dropped me at the quayside so I could meet up with my new best friend, the laundry-smell-rectifier Stephanie, and then went back to the boat as he was asked to move it to make way for a “big red boat” coming in today!
Whilst he was doing that we thought it might be a good idea to buy another couple of internet cards. We had bought one each at the post office yesterday but you can’t swap it between your laptop and phone, so we thought another set each would be a good idea as they work all over French Polynesia and they last for 5 hours each. So whilst the boat was being moved, I went into town, however I didn’t fancy the long 3 km walk in the heat, so did something for the first time in my life – I thumbed a lift!
The first truck that came by stopped and a very polite man drove me right to the post office. Cards bought, I started walking back with my thumb out again, sure enough another truck stopped and a lady took me right back into the port. Neither of these drivers expected payment or a tip. I need to mention here that I would never thumb a lift anywhere, but everyone on this island seems to know everyone, the population being only around 2,000 people, and they are all just so kind and friendly so I felt pretty safe.
Mission accomplished, Geoff and I treated ourself to a very leisurely afternoon. The Hanakee Lodge located high up above us does a deal for sailors – 6 hours by the pool, wifi and lunch – too good to miss. It was absolutely gorgeous up there, sunny, hardly any guests and a lovely empty infinity pool with the most breath-taking views behind it. We had a tasty lunch, a swim, checked our emails and lazed on the sunbeds. Living the dream! Again!
I just have to mention here about the grapefruits (pamplemousse) – famous in French Polynesia they are round, voluminous – up to 25 centimetres in diameter and up to 2 kg in weight. When the green skin turns yellow the fruit is ripe and the pale green flesh is juicy and sweet. Just look at the photo of me holding some in Hanakee Lodge so you can get an idea of their size.
Claude and Anabel came over for a drink tonight and then we went up to have a farewell dinner with them at the only other restaurant on the island – the first being where we had lunch! It was great to spend time with them, they had been very helpful to us in Ecuador. They are handing over their boat tomorrow and flying out on Friday.
Wednesday 22 June – a nice start to our day – we had a 1kg half of grapefruit for breakfast each – it tastes so good and needs no sugar at all, beautifully juicy and sweet. Then more good news Stephanie handed over some floral-smelling laundry! It’s been a mixed bag of weather rain/sun/rain so we lazed about on the boat and have now come up to the yacht chandlers to check on emails and what’s going on in the world.
Thursday 23 June – you will have read about my hair disaster this morning on a separate blog. I’m getting used to it now – I think. After sorting out a few bits and pieces on the boat, we headed to Snack Iris for lunch, located on the beach, we enjoyed eating listening to the pounding waves and watching the most beautifully coloured cockerels pecking around us.
Friday 24 June – Early morning – 5.30am wake up! We have to move the boat as the cruise/supply ship Aranui 5 – which is the ship that Mike and Sheryl are on – is coming into port. What a coincidence – we can see them on their balcony! For those of you who have read my last blog – what was it I said about not bumping into anyone I know – this we have done, with the only two couples we know in the whole of French Polynesia! We are going to meet Mike and Sheryl on the dock and walk into town and have a coffee with them, then head out to Tahuata, another island, later in the morning.
