Belize to Panama
Saturday 9 April – The wind on Saturday was very strong out of the NNE which gave us the possibility of laying the end of Honduras 300 miles to the southeast of San Pedro, Belize.
However, in addition to this, there is a 110-mile coral shelf which extends further to the east which must be cleared. We wanted to get away but were hesitant with 25-28 knot winds and smashing waves right through the narrow cut in the reef which was the only way out. We spoke with a local boat owner who said the coastguard had closed the reef entrance and boats were advised not to transit the passage. The problem was that the forecast was for that NNE wind to veer to the E and SE which would have then given us a 410-mile beat which, in a catamaran, is unthinkable!
During the afternoon we prepared the boat for the voyage and waited. At about 4.30pm we decided it was either now or tomorrow because we could not exit the reef in the dark. There were no lights and considerable underwater coral rocks close to the passage-way. the passage through the reef involved a right angle turn to avoid the reef in the centre of the passage. Geoff had studied the passage and felt confident we would be OK in the wind and the seas. I was scared to the point where I was crying, but bravely I did my job and got the anchor up in really strong, windy conditions and we headed off. The passage was fine, we charged out, hoisted the sales and settled down to a long night of crashing and bashing as we headed hard on the wind. Indeed, it wasn’t just a long night, it was also a long next day and a long next night.
By midday Monday the wind had dropped but maintained the NNE direction leaving us motor sailing in 12-15 knots. The seas slowly abated and the going became easy. By first light on Tuesday morning, we had cleared the coral shelf extending out from Honduras and eased away 30 degrees on course for Colon in Panama. On reflection we were lucky we got away on the Saturday because the wind did veer to the east on Monday afternoon and then a day later would have made the rounding of Honduras and the coral shelf so much harder.
Shortly before dawn and before rounding the coral shelf, we had a 40+ knot squall to spill the wind. We rounded the boat up but in so doing we backed the genoa to the point where it must have broken the attachment holding the radar dome three quarters of the way up the mast, because an hour later our breakfast was disturbed by an almighty crash as the radar dome smashed down on the deck. Nothing seems to have broken and we got the dome and the lid before it got wet, so our fingers are crossed that when we get to Panama it will still be operational and able to be re-installed. Needless to say, in future squalls we have to be very careful not to round up to the point where we back the genoa.
As I write this (obviously with Geoff’s input!) some hours later, we are sitting in a setting sun, 20 knots of warm breeze, blue skies, cobalt sea, zipping along at 10-11 knot as Geoff pours me a gin and tonic, to be followed by T-bone steak, mashed potatoes and ratatouille, and a piece of Whittakers chocolate for dessert! I’m beginning to like this life on the ocean waves!
36 hours more of this and we should arrive in Shelter Bay Marina, Colon, on Thursday morning.