We are sailing! Cartagena. Colombia to Livingston, Guatemala
Saturday 26 March - we sailed out of Cartagena around 4pm, it was great to finally start our real adventure. Don’t get me wrong, I loved our time in Colombia but after all the shipyard delays it was definitely time to get on with the sailing trip.
I must admit after being in the slip for so long it came as a little bit of a shock to me that the sea was so rough when we got out beyond the harbour even though we had been warned about it. It was 28 – 30 knots close hauled on the wind with 2 to 3 metre waves. Geoff got reefs in the sails and we ran the motors to get us through the seaway.
It was an awakening to both of us what lay ahead. It didn’t take long for me to feel very queasy, and I must confess it wasn’t my best night that night! Believing the wind would veer later in the night we took an eased route which lessened the banging of the waves. About 3.00am we had done 80 odd miles and being clear of the coast the waves eased and the wind veered allowing us to set our proper course.
These conditions continued all day Sunday, lots of banging and crashing but we were making good progress. It was during Sunday night/early Monday morning that the wind had veered even further and dropped into the usual Caribbean trade wind of 18 – 22 knots. With the sheets slightly eased, and then a good breeze, Salanjo took off. Although we had reefs in the mainsail and the genoa, we still saw a lot of 10- 11 knots on the speedo. And that’s basically how we went all of Monday and Monday night.
Cooking on the early part of the trip was difficult but Geoff managed to make me a cup of tea when I needed one and roast up some chicken. I just couldn’t face the sardine sandwiches, but they weren’t wasted, he ate the lot!
At sea we need to keep all windows and portholes closed but lucky we have some fans because the heat comes on during the day and the sun burns down when we are outside. We’re sharing the watches and I must say it is the most amazing, peaceful feeling sitting outside on the steering station, in the middle of the night, with warm Caribbean breezes and a sky full of stars that seems so close, you feel you could reach out and pluck one from the sky.
Monday - I have my sea legs and my appetite back now and for the last few days we have cruised along, spotting the odd ship and oil tanker on the horizon. On Monday afternoon we turned off the AIS tracking system as we have heard a lot of stories and been warned of pirates along the coast of Honduras so need to ensure our safety even though we are sailing a lot further off the coast than would normally be necessary. At night we have kept all the lights off just as an extra security measure. Having said that I’m thinking that Johnny Depp, aka Jack Sparrow in the Pirates of the Caribbean, leaping over our deck wouldn’t be a bad sight!
Tuesday – it’s my birthday today and what a wonderful present I got just after breakfast – a pod of dolphins playfully leaping alongside the boat, so fast they were hard to photograph but I managed to get a few shots. Such a beautiful sight.
Wednesday - we are now 170 miles NE off Livingston, Guatemala, sailing in a 25-knot easterly with lumpy 3 metre seas and Salanjo planing down the waves at 16 to 17 knots. Unfortunately, the way it has worked out we are too late to get to Livingtson and clear Immigration and Customs today and arriving at 4.00am in the morning will be difficult in the river and creek entrance to the town which has caused us to ease the sails and slow the boat with a planned arrival at first light tomorrow, Thursday 31 March. So, for now it’s easy going, sails well eased and enjoying the breeze and the blue skies after a tremendous squall and downpour around 4 am this morning. The downpour wasn’t all bad though as I think we have finally washed the last of that Ferroalquimar shipyard dust, dirt and grime off the decks!
As I write this blog now on our fourth day at sea and reflect on the trip to date, I have to say I was pretty scared, and the rough start didn’t help. However, Geoff is so professional and experienced, and nothing seems to faze him which is very reassuring for me. I’m starting to get more familiar with onboard living and coping well and Geoff seems pleased with my contribution in keeping the boat shipshape and tidy and the odd job he needs help with up on deck. I’m very happy about this as we have long way to go yet on this trip yet!!