Akaroa est charmante!
Monday 3 February
It was a big day today – we had hoped to get into Akaroa before dark, but it took a lot longer than we anticipated. Having said that, as we came up to Banks Peninsula we were rewarded with the most stunning sunset, the skies and the hills looked beautiful, bathed in shades of lemon, pink and orange with a sliver of silver moon, and we enjoyed watching them deepen into nighttime, joined by the stars, as we came into the harbour and anchored in French Bay, it all looked glorious. It took us 15 hours in the end.
Tuesday 4 February
After arriving in such clear skies last night, it was disappointing to wake up to a cool, grey misty, damp morning – not exactly enticing in what is meant to be mid-summer! So we had a leisurely breakfast, rugged up, and then took the dinghy into the soon-to-be-replaced iconic Akaroa Wharf. Originally built in 1887 it is being replaced this year, so I’m happy we were able to tread the boards of the original one. Akaroa, Canterbury's oldest town, was founded in August 1840 by French settlers. It has been suggested that French interest in New Zealand speeded up Britain's decision to annex New Zealand so by the time French settlers arrived, the Treaty of Waitangi between the Queen of England and Māori chiefs had already been signed - otherwise the outcome might have been quite different. However, it still has a distinct French flavour, we spotted a few Tricolore flags waving from some of the windows and the streets bear French names such as rue de Melmanche, rue Balguerie and Fleur Lane.
We wandered around this quaint little town admiring the pretty little cottages with all their beautiful hollyhocks, reminding me very much of La Rochelle, looking for a nice place to have a coffee and we settled on Ethels (not a particularly French name, more like something from Yorkshire!). After putting in our order, we noticed that there was a door leading to a tiny cinema with three people sitting down. I asked the lady what film was about to be shown and lo and behold, it was “Conclave” which has been high on my list not to miss, having read rave reviews and seen the Oscar nominations. It was meant to be, we bought two tickets, sat down, the lady brought in our coffee and cake and pressed go on the projector! It was every bit as good as I’d heard, just loved seeing the machinations of how a Conclave works (after all I’m a Catholic girl who went to school in a Convent) and Ralph Fiennes’ performance was superb! What a great way to spend a few hours – and when we walked out the sun had appeared! Talk about all in the timing!
We continued our meander around, stopping at a little waterfront bar for a glass of rosé and then made our way back to the boat to get ready for dinner. Looking back at the boats in French Bay with their beautiful backdrop of hills and ridges of Banks Peninsula, it reminds me very much of Pierre Doutreleau’s paintings. We had been told that Ma Maison was highly rated, and eager to continue our French theme – and my favourite food – we went back into town and tied the dinghy up on Daley’s Wharf, right in front of the restaurant! A quick look around at the other end of the town, equally as enchanting with its old Court House and Langlois -Eteveneaux Cottage, built in 1840 and one of the oldest buildings in Canterbury and the only surviving French-made building in this town. In front of the Peninsula War Memorial is the statue of Charles Meryon, an artist who sailed to New Zealand on a French naval ship, he was sent to protect this French settlement and spent four years in the Pacific making sketches - all looking delightful in the early evening sunshine. Then it was time for dinner, and we were not disappointed with the delicious French cuisine and wines, sitting at our table by the window – overlooking French Bay. La vie est belle!
Wednesday 5 February
No time to waste, we are following weather patterns as we sail up the coast, as we need to be in the Sounds to welcome guests next week. So as soon as we see good weather, we head out. (Also, I’m not in a hurry for any repeats of the weather we experienced sailing down the West Coast a few weeks ago…just sayin’). So, it’s au revoir et merci Akaroa and out we cruised at 8.00am once again rewarded with a local farewell, this time by some Hector’s dolphins, one of the world’s smallest dolphins and peculiar to the South Island of New Zealand – unfortunately those little buggers were so swift I couldn’t get one photo of them to show you so you’ll have to take my word for it!
