Island Hopping in the Yasawas – Part 2
Saturday 24 September – we sailed right up to the top of the Yasawas and have anchored in the most beautiful bay called Yasawairara. Once again, we made our way onto the beach to pay our respects to the Chief who was sitting under a tree with some of the other local gentleman.
We were introduced to them all, one being the Chief, one the Deputy Chief, and one the Lord Mayor of another village (wearing a Wallabies jersey, on the day that the All Blacks are playing the Wallabies, so he took some flack from Geoff!). We handed over our Kava and during the course of the conversation, they asked if three of them could join the boat on Monday morning to go trawling for fish. Geoff has obliged and told them to be ready to leave at 7.00am.
In 2008, Geoff had been to the wedding of two locals, John and Miriyama and he was keen to hear about them. Sadly, they told us that John had passed away in 2018 at the age of 39 years, but that they would take us to see his wife and 4 young children, the oldest being only 11 years. We went to her house and sat with her for some time, the kids happily playing marbles with Zander. Then another gentleman arrived and introduced himself as the Village Chief, and was quite amused when we told him we had already met him - his pretend counterpart at the beach, who had also accepted the kava gift! He did seem quite amused but was quick to invite himself on Monday’s trawling expedition and enquired about whether Geoff could help finance the installation of a new solar panel in the house, which Geoff has agreed to. We then went and had a look at the water tank outside the Geoff financed on his last trip there in 2008.
A beautiful evening in the bay, we sat up and had our dinner on the bow so we could enjoy a few cooling breezes and watch the pretty sunset – and the goats climbing on the rocks.
Sunday 25 September – Mike, Zander and I decided we would join some of the locals for their church service at 10.30am so we went off in the dinghy and arrived just a few minutes late, we were told it was only a 30-minute service but were still there at 12.15pm. There was certainly a lot of fire and brimstone talk, judging by the look of the actions from the pastor. I can’t imagine what these poor innocent villagers, with their simple lives, would have done to deserve this.
We did get acknowledged by the second pastor which was very special and when it was time for the donations, we were surprised to see them all written down in a book and then read out to the congregation! The singing and harmonies were so resonant and an absolute delight to hear. Back to the deserted beach, one of the best I have been on, and to the boat for a cool down swim and lunch in the shade, followed by a lazy afternoon.
Monday 26 September – Geoff picked up Rattu Ali Els – whom we thought was the Village Chief, but apparently his brother is the Chief and is on the mainland at the moment, so he’s Acting Village Chief and Leon the pretend “Village Chief” who is Rattu’s brother (yes, all very confusing) the dinghy at 7.00am and they arrived with a full sized plastic dustbin to house all the fish they think they will catch on the trawl we are currently doing around the point. Rattu told us that he does not drink Kava so he is happy with our gift to him in taking him out fishing on the boat, so he can catch enough to feed his family. Sailing around and over the reef, Rattu caught a very large Wahu, a Barracuda and a Mackerel, so it was a good morning’s works and will feed quite a few of them in the village.
Once we dropped them back we got going and started sailing back down the west coast. We anchored off Yarwini Island which is totally deserted and Mike, Zander and I hopped in the dinghy to have a closer look. Absolutely beautiful, soft, deep sand surrounded by aquamarine waters. A little photo session and then back to the boat to get going to further south. We’re now anchored in Land Harbour for the night, we arrived just before a glorious sunset and are now rocking gently on a quiet starry night, with not a breath of wind, which is heavenly, if a little hot!
Tuesday 27 - Wednesday 28 September - we've had a lovely time, just visiting all the islands. So neat that, on your own boat, you can visit most of them with the exception perhaps of Vomo Island and Yasawa Island Lodge which are expensive to stay at, so of course you can understand they wouldn't want all us yachties crashing their party for nothing!
It's so hot here, Mike rigged up a cover on the bow so we could sit there and enjoy a breeze - and a dinner there too, watching the sunset - not too shabby at all! We had a nice stop off at Castaway Island, just got out of the dinghy on the beach around the corner and then casually walked in, picking up one of their beach towels en route so we looked like we were guests. Had a great swim in their pools and then casually walked back out again!!!!
Then we went off to visit Musket Cover and Plantation Island. I loved the vibe at Musket Cove as we walked in and through to Plantation, their villas are lovely, a colonial look about them and right opposite the beach. We sat by the beach on Plantation for a round of Pina Coladas in the sunset, then back to Musket Cove on their golf cart, with a singalong for Zander of "the wheels on the bus". We had ordered a delicious rotisserie chicken and salads to pick up and sat outside and enjoyed them - nice not to have to wash the dishes!
Thursday 29 September - a very busy day. Nick and Kate and the boys arrived today, so we sailed back to Denarau, with Jacqui and I cleaning the inside of the boat as we went along. Beds all stripped for the laundry and shopping list at the ready! We came into Port Denarau and straight into the pump station to fill up with diesel and water. I hopped off as I had a haircut booked at "spoilt rotten" - can't say I was, and I have come out with another shocker of a haircut, never mind I still have my hat! Then Geoff I and got the tokens for the laundry, threw everything into 3 machines and then Nick and family arrived. Mike and Jacqui were all packed to disembark and go to their hotel in the Port for two nights, so it was a quick changeover of luggage and then Kate and I went off in a taxi with a huge shopping list for the Fruit and Vegetable market and the supermarket, whilst the others did numerous jobs on the boat and in the port.
A lot to do in a day, but we are away again for 2 weeks with no shops so have to get it all sorted. We found some ladies on a flower stall who agreed to make us some lovely head "tiaras" and deliver them to the hotel, so we met them at 5pm and put them on - they are gorgeous. We all got together for a lovely family dinner in the authentic Fijian restaurant in the Port, so nice for Geoff to have his 5 grandchildren all together (I'm jealous) and little Annabel was so good, just sitting in her chair watching and smiling at everyone. Geoff and I finally picked up the washing after dinner (after we had been in and out feeding tokens into the machines) and we went back to the boat for the night.
Friday 30 September - all go again, Geoff, Mike and Nick are off to the Denarau golf course for a round of golf. Jacqui has kindly given me her room key so I can get my computer sorted with my IT guys in Auckland, I won't bore you all with the details, but what with the computer and my phone scam problems, it has been a nightmare. I also have the luxury of putting on my hair colour - and showering in an amazing hotel power shower and with a hairdryer no less!!!! Whilst having use of the hotel wifi - what a treat! And on that note, I am finishing this blog so I can get it sent off with the great connection.
We're off tomorrow sailing around more islands - so I'll be in touch soon, watch this space!