Gearing up for Galapagos

The protected areas of the Galapagos Islands have such a fragile ecosystem that there are mandatory requirements for yachts and visitors to protect it.  We have been sent several documents by Javier, the Agent who is handling our arrival, and we have had to ensure that we have followed them to the letter, otherwise we will be turned away when we arrive.  We will be sailing into San Cristobel Island which is the only port of entry for yachts.

As Captain, Geoff has to produce the usual crew list, a the health insurance document for each crew member, the International Zarpe, a Fumigation certificate, an Antifouling paint certificate, a Hull Cleaning certificate – with photographs and a video if available, a list of the boat’s particulars, and a list of the last 10 ports visited.

When we arrive there will be around 8 – 10 officers who will board and inspect the boat.  These officers will cover Health, Biosecurity, Environmental Risk Assessment, Hull Inspection, Safety Equipment Inspection and the Immigration process.  This will include all medicines aboard and the First Aid Box, a list of alcohol, hand sanitizer, disinfecting wipes, face masks, safety glasses, nitrite gloves.  The black water system and bilges will be checked and will have to have a notice on them “DO NOT DISCHARGE BLACK WATERS INTO THE SEA”.  All waste on board will have to be separated into organic, recyclable, non-recyclable and all bins and containers have to be clearly labeled.  We need a notice inside and outside the boat saying, ‘DO NOT THROW GARBAGE INTO THE SEA”.  Mandatory eco-friendly or biodegradable products – soap, detergent etc.  A logbook for fuel, garbage disposal, engines and generator waste, hazardous waste and bilge water disposal. 

But wait, there’s more…….

The galley, all cabins, lockers, stowage and engine room will all be searched.  No nuts, fresh coffee beans, chia seeds, oranges, mangoes, passion fruit and all types of berries are forbidden as is unprocessed or fresh cheese and meats.

Two dive inspectors will check the hull which has to be clean – the keel, the rudder, bow thruster tube and prop.  No barnacles, algae, seashells or other organisms.  (Fortunately the boat has been on the hard twice this trip and half out of the water in Bahia, so is in great condition).

Boat and crew documents will be inspected, safety equipment – flares, life raft, lifejackets, fire equipment, navigation and communication equipment.

And if we pass the test – we’ll be allowed in!!!!  Yippee!  Otherwise it’s been a waste of 3 days’ sail!   Early on Sunday morning we will start cleaning the boat again from top to bottom and spraying lots of disinfectant around so it smells like the inside of a hospital ward for our arrival!

Saturday  21 May – We’ve started the cleaning for our arrival, Geoff and Mike have done all the bilges and we have put our notices up.  We stopped this afternoon for our first swim on the Equator in the Southern Pacific – the others dived in but scaredy-cat Ro had to go down the steps – swimming in the middle of the ocean in 400 metres’ deep water was a big deal for me – you can see that reflected in the hilarious, slightly terrified, look on the photo of my face!

I have also done quite a bit of cooking.  Yes I know, you all won’t believe I just wrote that!!!!  Unfortunately, we have not been able to get WOOP delivered in the Pacific, and you’ll remember that we stocked up with lots of meat etc. for our long trip to the Marquesas before the freezer broke down.  Anyway, so far so good, it’s not too rough, so I have been down in the galley chopping and dicing and cooking up all the meat so we can freeze dinners.  We have been eating like the Royal Family here the last few days as we have lots of fruit and vegetables that we must use up before we arrive, so we are indulging and gorging in the sunshine!

Our hard work was rewarded with one of the most beautiful sunsets tonight – Geoff and I sat for an hour on the bow watching it change from pale yellow, to pale orange and pink to a very deep orange, and then almost to red.  It was a magnificent end to the day.

Sunday 22 May – We arrived at San Cristobel Island around midday and Geoff radioed ashore to be told that the inspections can’t be done today as it’s Sunday.  So we are anchored out in the bay in our lovely clean and tidy boat!  We can see an old boat near us with about 10 seals lazing about on it and it’s surprising, given their weight, how easy they come out of the water and flop on the deck.  Geoff already thought about this before we left Bahia and we had purchased a big roll of netting to rig up fencing around the two boarding platforms on the boat.  He and Mike have done a sterling job creating the barriers so hopefully those pesky seals won’t be gracing us with their presence!

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San Cristóbal Galápagos - Capital del Paraíso (and it is!)

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Next stop Bahia de Caráquez , Ecuador